![Onze Amsterdam reis [Photos Added 26/11]](http://bobble.technobubble.info/wp-content/plugins/ttftitles/cache/b3c6ac0a43d0c3949267a8e7e7660096.png){kind=small}
Last weekend I saw Amsterdam for the first time at it’s winter worst. Even so, it has stolen a little bit of my heart.
I was prepared not to like Amsterdam.
I can be very mullish when travelling in Europe if I am not going to Italy. To the country and city that I call home. A watery city that will always be my love and which ‘calls’ seductively to me “vieni qui.”
Somehow I have always ‘avoided’ Amsterdam. When I interailed I changed trains at Centraal Station and went to Munchen instead. I had an image in my mind of stoned English [insert any interailing nationality here] youth rolling about in a neon lit hell, causing trouble and leering at overmade up prostitutes. The fact that I actually wanted to go there for the perfect 17th century domestic architecture – the lure of another canal built cityscape – seemed to cause no end of amusement to my travelling companions. Nothing has changed – my colleagues all nudged and winked and told me not to eat any dodgy mushrooms. I mean you can’t be going to Amsterdam for any other reason right? It’s just drugs and sex with the odd bit of edam to divert your attention.
My hesitance seemed well founded.
Bikes and Graffiti
The things that everyone tells you about Holland are true though. The people are lovely, warm, friendly and are embarrassingly good at speaking your language. The trains from Schipol to Amsterdam are cheap, bang on time and enviably new and modern. Ditto the trams. Every sign seems to be translated into English for the travellers convenience. Standards of living, dress, education and ‘socialising’ are all high – with correspondingly high taxes – but you obviously get what you pay for in the Netherlands. The streets are clean and the pollution low. And, I haven’t eaten so well outside of Italy [the best duck ever in fact].
Our favourite road sign
What people don’t seem to tell you is that if you step outside the tourist infested [at this time of year mostly people from the North of England it would seem] hell that is the Centrum you have been given a perfect 17th century city to explore. A quick walk from our ‘gezellig’ apartment on the Nieuwe Keizersgracht (near the seven bridges) to the Dam was enough to convince me that I hated the places and things most associated with this city. There were the drugged rolling tourists [how could you stand to be in that smoky environment for more than one minute? Walk past a coffeeshop door when it opens and you are flattened with a 'solid' wall of pungent noxious fug], the overdose of neon signage for the most mundane of goods (“eat more bread!”), and the haphazard modern insertions into old brick buildings. I never even got as far as the red light district per se.
The thought that comforted me was that there weren’t any Amsterdammers around their either.
However – as with that other watery city Venice – if you stick to the neighbourhoods you have a very different experience. Hell, it is a different city.
The symbol of Amsterdam
We walked on icy cold days around the Grachtengordel – those elegant ring canals comprising 17th century waterside houses painted in distinctive glossy black that is actually very dark brown – and the Brouwersgracht in Jordaan full of converted warehouses with shutters painted red and left open to the winter chill.
Window Bars
We poked aound local markets and goggled at how many different things you could do to a wheel of gouda.
We drank long cups of warming coffee in ‘brown’ cafes, and stroked the resident tabby.
We giggled at the sountrack in ‘Kitsch’, a fabulously tacky restaurant on the Utrechtstraat, and felt part of the neighbourhood. Vooges, on the same street, employs the often seen red curtain just inside the door of the traditional brown cafes and restaurants. Here it is not a mark of exclusivity -
but simply a stylish way to keep out the chill – and to enhance the feeling of Gezelligheid.
Door numbers Amsterdam style
We bought expensive handmade chocolates in Puccini Bomboni and were entranced by the delicate milk chocolate tulips dusted with cocoa.
I think I fell in love. How could I not with the silent brooding canals lit by green lamps? The quiet swish of orange bicyles passing by – usually with two giggling children in the large wooden bucket at the front that we christened the ‘Kinderbucket’ – and the totally human scale of the streets where pedestrians and cyclists are the noisiest things? Touching the small painted bricks of the canal houses you feel totally a part of the city’s fabric. Stand there too long and one of the crooked houses may just swallow you up.
The ‘Skinny Bridge’ at night
If moving home is not an option in the near future [due to cronic lack of jobs there, particularly in Mr Bobble's line of work] this just may be the city for me. Any culture that leaves curtains and blinds routinely up – even on dark winter evenings – allowing the passerby a snapshot of warm family life within is a good one. The Amsterdammers’ attitude is “What have we got to hide?”
Dutch letter box: they all seem to have this sign.
Since we’ve got back I’ve been doing some research into the Dutch concept of Gezellig. There is no literal translation into English. It means to be cozy, to share that coziness with friends and family, a fellowship, homely, warm, snug, sharing, intimate and convivial. I like to think we experienced a good dose of Gezelligheid. Maybe it is a Dutch/Scandinavian phenomenon closely linked with cold winters, short hours of daylight and having well heated and insulated homes [sadly lacking in my Victorian flat].
I am well on the way to falling in love with another city.
NB: More Amsterdam photos will be coming shortly – these are just digital.
November 25th, 2004 at 9:03 pm
Lovely. Just lovely.
2 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 9:03 pm
Lovely. Just lovely.
2 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 9:04 pm
Just what he said – I love reading your musings on different places and things.
I was there for a week working once and had a wonderful time – went to fantastic restaurants, met lovely people etc. Individual small shops/restaurants seem to be a real European thing that we just don’t do in England in quite the same way somehow. And I certainly didn’t notice any All Bar Ones..
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 9:04 pm
Just what he said – I love reading your musings on different places and things.
I was there for a week working once and had a wonderful time – went to fantastic restaurants, met lovely people etc. Individual small shops/restaurants seem to be a real European thing that we just don’t do in England in quite the same way somehow. And I certainly didn’t notice any All Bar Ones..
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 9:04 pm
Thanks Luda and BlackRat.
You have hit the nail on the head Luda. Small one off individual places run by good people. I always had to check [I mean how un-London is it?] if the cheery bye or dag was aimed at me when leaving a shop/restautrant – and it always was.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 9:04 pm
Thanks Luda and BlackRat.
You have hit the nail on the head Luda. Small one off individual places run by good people. I always had to check [I mean how un-London is it?] if the cheery bye or dag was aimed at me when leaving a shop/restautrant – and it always was.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 10:01 pm
Wow, I always kind of expect Amsterdam to be tacky. Now I think I’d like to visit it one day.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 10:01 pm
Wow, I always kind of expect Amsterdam to be tacky. Now I think I’d like to visit it one day.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 10:03 pm
Wonderful entry, Bobble. I enjoyed your account and description very, very much.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 10:03 pm
Wonderful entry, Bobble. I enjoyed your account and description very, very much.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 11:02 pm
Although it seems like I may be ungratefully returning these two sugary items, I simply have to reward you with as much chocolate as possible for such an exquisitely gorgeous post. I sighed.
I really did.
2 Sweetie(s) given
November 25th, 2004 at 11:02 pm
Although it seems like I may be ungratefully returning these two sugary items, I simply have to reward you with as much chocolate as possible for such an exquisitely gorgeous post. I sighed.
I really did.
2 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 12:04 am
Good blogging. Nice to see the art is alive and well. Is your place in the City or out at Docklands then? The two harridans sound a whole heap of fun.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 12:04 am
Good blogging. Nice to see the art is alive and well. Is your place in the City or out at Docklands then? The two harridans sound a whole heap of fun.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 1:03 am
Beautiful. You’ve inspired me to make my house more Gezelligheid.
1 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 1:03 am
Beautiful. You’ve inspired me to make my house more Gezelligheid.
1 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 4:01 am
This is so lovely. Thank you.
I haven’t yet been but have some friends there I need to visit.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 4:01 am
This is so lovely. Thank you.
I haven’t yet been but have some friends there I need to visit.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 5:02 pm
“Just digital…” will do me anyday. Wonderful.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 5:02 pm
“Just digital…” will do me anyday. Wonderful.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 6:05 pm
Sounds absolutley fabulous bobble! Glad to hear that you had such fun… The apartment looks gorgeous too!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 6:05 pm
Sounds absolutley fabulous bobble! Glad to hear that you had such fun… The apartment looks gorgeous too!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 6:05 pm
Sounds absolutley fabulous bobble! Glad to hear that you had such fun… The apartment looks gorgeous too!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:00 pm
Twice as lovely with pix, but you painted a graphic picture with the words anyway. Love ‘em x
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:00 pm
Twice as lovely with pix, but you painted a graphic picture with the words anyway. Love ‘em x
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:00 pm
Twice as lovely with pix, but you painted a graphic picture with the words anyway. Love ‘em x
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:01 pm
Yes, I’ve been to Amsterdam several times now, but you make me see it in a completely different way. Brilliant writing, and photos.
But you haven’t mentioned the trams…!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:01 pm
Yes, I’ve been to Amsterdam several times now, but you make me see it in a completely different way. Brilliant writing, and photos.
But you haven’t mentioned the trams…!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:01 pm
Yes, I’ve been to Amsterdam several times now, but you make me see it in a completely different way. Brilliant writing, and photos.
But you haven’t mentioned the trams…!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:03 pm
The trams were indeed fab Midnight (very clean and hi-tech) with big machines at the back to validate your ticket, and I got my Strippenkart as recommended by Pog. There also seemed ticket checkers at the entrance to every Metro (and on the airport trains) so god knows how your mate got away with not paying for a year.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:03 pm
The trams were indeed fab Midnight (very clean and hi-tech) with big machines at the back to validate your ticket, and I got my Strippenkart as recommended by Pog. There also seemed ticket checkers at the entrance to every Metro (and on the airport trains) so god knows how your mate got away with not paying for a year.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:03 pm
The trams were indeed fab Midnight (very clean and hi-tech) with big machines at the back to validate your ticket, and I got my Strippenkart as recommended by Pog. There also seemed ticket checkers at the entrance to every Metro (and on the airport trains) so god knows how your mate got away with not paying for a year.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:04 pm
Who knows, maybe he always got on in the middle!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:04 pm
Who knows, maybe he always got on in the middle!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 7:04 pm
Who knows, maybe he always got on in the middle!
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 8:04 pm
Whenever I think of Amsterdam, I try to think of how much I enjoyed it (with no joints or ladies of the night I hasten to add – also inter-railing) but the one thing that sticks in my mind is a terrible, TERRIBLE song called Je Mou Je Bek Houwe (I think) which basically means “shut your trap” and was ‘rapped’ by the Dutch version of Blazin’ Squad….eeeuuurgh.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 8:04 pm
Whenever I think of Amsterdam, I try to think of how much I enjoyed it (with no joints or ladies of the night I hasten to add – also inter-railing) but the one thing that sticks in my mind is a terrible, TERRIBLE song called Je Mou Je Bek Houwe (I think) which basically means “shut your trap” and was ‘rapped’ by the Dutch version of Blazin’ Squad….eeeuuurgh.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 8:04 pm
Whenever I think of Amsterdam, I try to think of how much I enjoyed it (with no joints or ladies of the night I hasten to add – also inter-railing) but the one thing that sticks in my mind is a terrible, TERRIBLE song called Je Mou Je Bek Houwe (I think) which basically means “shut your trap” and was ‘rapped’ by the Dutch version of Blazin’ Squad….eeeuuurgh.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 9:00 pm
Midge, that is just WRONG. Mentally scarred for life no doubt.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 9:00 pm
Midge, that is just WRONG. Mentally scarred for life no doubt.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 9:00 pm
Midge, that is just WRONG. Mentally scarred for life no doubt.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 11:00 pm
To lay my thoughts to rest I have since been desperately seeking a copy but do you think that even amazon.nl has a copy? Of course not.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 11:00 pm
To lay my thoughts to rest I have since been desperately seeking a copy but do you think that even amazon.nl has a copy? Of course not.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 26th, 2004 at 11:00 pm
To lay my thoughts to rest I have since been desperately seeking a copy but do you think that even amazon.nl has a copy? Of course not.
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 30th, 2004 at 8:03 pm
it is beautiful, I fell in love on my first visit – I am flying out on New Years Eve and can’t wait.
Lovely post Bobble
x
1 Sweetie(s) given
November 30th, 2004 at 8:03 pm
it is beautiful, I fell in love on my first visit – I am flying out on New Years Eve and can’t wait.
Lovely post Bobble
x
1 Sweetie(s) given
November 30th, 2004 at 8:03 pm
it is beautiful, I fell in love on my first visit – I am flying out on New Years Eve and can’t wait.
Lovely post Bobble
x
1 Sweetie(s) given
November 30th, 2004 at 8:03 pm
Ooh you’ll have such fun Laurieloo x
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 30th, 2004 at 8:03 pm
Ooh you’ll have such fun Laurieloo x
0 Sweetie(s) given
November 30th, 2004 at 8:03 pm
Ooh you’ll have such fun Laurieloo x
0 Sweetie(s) given
December 1st, 2004 at 10:00 pm
I knew you’d love it ….
0 Sweetie(s) given
December 1st, 2004 at 10:00 pm
I knew you’d love it ….
0 Sweetie(s) given
December 1st, 2004 at 10:00 pm
I knew you’d love it ….
0 Sweetie(s) given
December 1st, 2004 at 10:01 pm
Yes Pog I did. Many thanks for the ticket tip – my first Amsterdam purchase ;o)
0 Sweetie(s) given
December 1st, 2004 at 10:01 pm
Yes Pog I did. Many thanks for the ticket tip – my first Amsterdam purchase ;o)
0 Sweetie(s) given
December 1st, 2004 at 10:01 pm
Yes Pog I did. Many thanks for the ticket tip – my first Amsterdam purchase ;o)
0 Sweetie(s) given